Follow the road sign towards the hidden glen an hour north of Inverness and keep on going for 10 miles, on an intimate single track through mystical birch woodland and past tall verdant moss banks. Below, the River Cannich coils towards the North Sea. The last few miles open up into a wide valley – at the time of writing they are blanketed in a wintry russet veil – with red deer stags and Highland cows lining the verge.
Eventually, you’ll reach the end of the road – literally – where an 11-mile loch stretches to the West. Today it is as flat as a computer screen, with the snow-capped mountains and icy burns mirrored on the water’s surface. Here you get a glimpse of the true wilderness that still exists in the Scottish Highlands. This is the middle of nowhere, where nothing meets everything.